SAYAZ · CARE GUIDE
Keeping your leather in its first season, for every season
Every pair is made from natural, living materials — genuine leather, suede, and patent finishes each ask for something different. Five minutes a week is enough to keep them looking the way they did on day one.
Genuine Leather
Full-grain & top-grain uppers — boots, formal shoes, loafers
Leather is skin: it breathes, and it needs conditioning the way your own skin needs moisturiser. Left dry, it cracks; left damp, it stains. The goal is to keep it clean, conditioned, and out of standing water.
Do
- Wipe with a soft, dry cloth after each wear to lift dust before it settles into the grain
- Use a leather conditioner or cream once every 3–4 weeks to replace natural oils
- Let wet shoes air-dry at room temperature, away from direct heat
- Stuff with paper or shoe trees overnight to hold shape
- Use a horsehair brush before polishing to loosen surface grit
Avoid
- Direct sun or a heater to speed up drying — it dries out and cracks the grain
- Baby wipes or household cleaners not made for leather
- Wearing the same pair two days running — leather needs 24 hours to release moisture
- Storing in plastic bags, which trap humidity and cause mould
Rhythm: wipe after every wear · condition monthly · full polish every 2–3 months
Suede
Napped leather uppers — casual shoes, chukkas
Suede has a raised nap instead of a smooth face, so it marks and flattens instead of scuffing. Water is its biggest enemy — it doesn't wipe off, it soaks in. Everything below is about brushing, not wiping.
Do
- Brush in one direction with a dedicated suede brush to restore the nap after every wear
- Treat with a suede/nubuck protector spray before the first wear, and re-apply monthly
- Blot fresh liquid spills immediately with a dry cloth — never rub
- Use a suede eraser or fine emery block on dry scuffs
- Let mud dry completely, then brush it out
Avoid
- Water, leather cream, or polish — all of these flatten and stain the nap
- Wearing suede in rain or heavy dust without a protector spray applied first
- Rubbing at a stain, which pushes it deeper into the nap
- Machine drying or any direct heat source
Rhythm: brush after every wear · re-spray protector monthly · deeper nap-restore every season
Patent Leather
High-gloss finished uppers — formal & occasion wear
The shine comes from a plastic-like coating over the leather, so patent doesn't need conditioning the way genuine leather does — it needs protecting from cracking and scratching, and cleaning without dulling the gloss.
Do
- Wipe with a soft, slightly damp cloth to remove dust and restore shine
- Use a dedicated patent leather cleaner or petroleum jelly for scuffs, buffed with a soft cloth
- Store flat or upright with shoe trees to prevent crease lines forming in the coating
- Keep away from other shoes in storage, so nothing scratches the surface
Avoid
- Regular shoe polish or conditioner — the coating doesn't absorb it and it dulls the gloss
- Folding or cramming into a small box, which cracks the coating permanently
- Extreme cold, which makes the coating brittle and prone to cracking
- Alcohol-based cleaners or nail-polish remover near scuffs
Rhythm: wipe after every wear · check for crease points weekly if worn often
Stains & emergencies
Salt or water marks (leather): dampen a cloth with a 1:1 water-vinegar mix, wipe gently, then condition once fully dry.
Oil or grease (suede): cover with cornstarch or talc, leave overnight to draw it out, then brush.
Scuffs (patent): dab a little petroleum jelly on, leave for a minute, buff with a soft cloth.
Not sure what you're dealing with? Send us a photo on WhatsApp before trying anything — some stains are easier to fix before they're touched.